Crochet frock

  This looks like a fun, slightly flared tunic or top with a classic scoop neck, short sleeves, and a playful zigzag/rippled hemline.


​Here is a beginner-friendly, customizable crochet pattern to bring your drawing to life!

​Pattern Overview

​This top is worked from the top-down in the round (or in two panels if you prefer, but seamless is easier!). We will use basic stitches and an easy chevron/zigzag repeat at the bottom.






​Abbreviations (US Terms)

​Ch: Chain

​Sl st: Slip stitch

​Sc: Single crochet

​Dc: Double crochet

​Dc2tog: Double crochet two together (decrease)

​Step 1: The Scoop Neck & Raglan Yoke

​We will start at the neck and increase at the four corners to create the sleeves and body simultaneously.

​Foundation: Chain a multiple of 4 that comfortably fits over your head as a scoop neck (e.g., 80, 96, or 112 chains). Join with a sl st to form a ring, being careful not to twist.

​Setup Row: Divide your total stitches into 4 parts: Back, Front, Left Sleeve, Right Sleeve.

​Example for 80 chains: 26 for Front, 26 for Back, 14 for Left Sleeve, 14 for Right Sleeve.

​Yoke Rows: * Dc in each stitch across the back.

​At the corner, work (2 Dc, Ch 2, 2 Dc) to create the raglan increase.

​Dc across the sleeve, work the corner increase.

​Dc across the front, work the corner increase.

​Dc across the second sleeve, work the final corner increase. Join.

​Repeat: Repeat this increase row until the yoke easily reaches your armpits and covers your shoulders just like in your sketch.

​Step 2: Separating the Sleeves & Body

​Now we leave the sleeves behind and focus on the main torso.

​Joining Row: Dc across the back until you reach the first Ch-2 corner space. Dc into the corner, Chain 3 to 5 stitches (for underarm room), skip all the sleeve stitches, and Dc directly into the next Ch-2 corner space.

​Dc across the front to the next corner, Chain 3 to 5 stitches, skip the second sleeve, and Dc into the last corner space. Join to the first stitch.

​The Body: Work Dc in rounds around this new, smaller circle. To get that slight A-line flare from your sketch, add 2 increases (2 Dc in one stitch) on the left and right sides of the waist every 4-5 rows.

​Stop crocheting when the top is about 2 to 3 inches shorter than your desired final length.

​Step 3: The Zigzag / Ripple Hem

​To get that sharp, zig-zag bottom edge, we will transition into a ripple stitch pattern.

​To make peaks and valleys, work this repeat around your bottom edge (you may need to tweak your stitch count slightly in the previous row so it divides perfectly by 10):

​The Peak: 3 Dc in one stitch.

​Dc in next 3 stitches.

​The Valley: Dc2tog twice (skipping/decreasing stitches to pull it downward).

​Dc in next 3 stitches.

​Repeat this sequence all the way around.

​Repeat this ripple row 3 to 4 times. The peaks will naturally push down to create those sharp triangles from your drawing! Fasten off and weave in your ends.

​Step 4: The Sleeves

​Attach your yarn at the underarm of one of the sleeve openings.

​Work Dc in rounds around the armhole opening.

​To give it that slightly angled, short-sleeve look from your sketch, decrease 1 stitch at the underarm every round.

​Fasten off when it reaches your desired length (usually 4–6 rounds), and repeat on the other side!

​What yarn weight and hook size are you planning to use for this project?

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